Sunrise, strolling and snorkeling: Porquerolles

Yesterday we moved to the beach resort of Hyères where we’re spending 4 nights, island hopping, walking, swimming and snorkelling. When I’ve previously tried snorkelling I didn’t like it but, before we came away, John bought me to a fancy new mask and snorkel and, today, I loved it! We spent the day exploring the island of Porquerolles… above and below the water line!

We were awake early so we caught the 7.30 ferry from the Giens Peninsula, just minutes from the campsite. The sun was just coming up and everywhere looked lovely.

The ferry was quite busy with people commuting to the island but they all sat inside and we were lucky to get a good seat on top, outside to watch the sun come up over the fort and Porqerolles.

The journey took about 25 minutes and we soon reached the port on the island and disembarked, looking a little windswept.

We headed straight out of the village up a lane across the island to the rugged south coast. There were a few cars around to begin with, then a couple of bikes, and after that we saw nothing and nobody until we came back to the north coast.

We visited Gorges du Loup then passed the lighthouse before stopping to eat breakfast at a beautiful spot on top of the cliffs, with the turquoise sea far below.

The walk was beautiful. Much of it was in the shade on narrow rocky or sandy paths through scrubby bushes or pine trees then, all of a sudden, we’d pop out and find an amazing view in front of us. The path wound up and downhill and at one point we came out on a pretty pebbly beach, before heading up Mount des Salins, a high point on the island.

It was really peaceful and we often walked in silence, listening to the songbirds in the trees. There were vineyards and olive trees in places, and some fruit trees, which I haven’t yet identified.

The first couple of hours were still cool, especially in the trees, and we kept walking through cobwebs across the path, which were covered in dew and lit beautifully in the early morning light.

We eventually left the south coast and headed back across the island. There were more people around now on bikes and on foot because the main tracks and beaches are on the flatter north side of the island. There were lots of boats moored off the coast, and people were swimming and sunbathing, although nowhere was very busy today.

As we walked back towards the port we took a few detours to visit forts and viewpoints and ended up finding a lovely little beach. Apart from the luxury yacht parked in the bay, we had it to ourselves, which was wonderful. Although I was apprehensive at first because of the sea grass and rocks below the surface, John persuaded me to try snorkelling. My new mask and snorkel were great and I loved floating around like a bit starfish, watching beautifully coloured fish swimming below me. We also saw a starfish, sea urchins, sea anemones and a funny green spongy thing. I’m so pleased I did it… and a bit proud of myself for overcoming my irrational fear that the salty water will come down my snorkel and choke me! I can’t wait to go again.

We lay in the sunshine to dry off then packed up and headed back to the village and port. It was hot by now so I kept to the shade as much as possible as we passed another fort and more beautiful secluded bays that most tourists won’t find because they don’t explore.

Before catching the ferry back we treated ourselves to an icecream and wandered around the village. We’re now back at the campsite, having cooled down with a beer when we got off the ferry. We’re planning what to do tomorrow. Unfortunately, it looks as if it’ll be too windy to take the packrats on the sea but, hopefully we can find some sheltered bays where we can snorkel again 🙂