A 900m climb: Sattelberg 2115 metres

Although only a 10 kilometre hike, we knew today would be a long day, partly because we knew there was a 900 metre ascent, but also because Lesley told us to pack double lunch!

Almi’s took us by minibus down the valley… our group first, then Sean’s. After putting our snowshoes on, we set off up a very steep slope across a field. Lesley must have read my mind and reassured us that it wouldn’t be like that all day! We could see the main road high on stilts across the valley as we climbed, heading to the Brenner pass between Austria and Italy. It sounded very noisy after the silence in the snowy valley… a reminder that, for most people, life was continuing as normal, while we’re in our snowshoeing bubble.

The slope became less steep when we met a track through the forest. Shortly after that we took the single track Wasserweg (water path) along a gushing stream bouncing down through the woods. This path hadn’t been walked recently, so it was hard for Lesley at the front, breaking trail. As we had a long day ahead, she decided to make the hiking a little easier by heading back out of the trees and ascending a ski piste instead.

The piste is no longer used by downhill skiers, only ski tourers. After about 3 kilometres and 400 metres of ascent we reached the top of the blue-rated piste and Sattelberg Alm (1633 metres). We stopped there for a drink… lovely creamy hot chocolate for me and John. It was wonderful sitting outside in the glorious sunshine. I only had my gym leggings on, instead of my thermal hiking leggings, because the forecast was for a warm day and I knew we had a long, hard climb. While we rested, I stripped down to my T shirt for a while… an unexpected pleasure feeling the sun’s warmth on my arms.

From the hut we could see the red-rated piste ahead of us and, high on the crest of the mountain, the cross marking the summit. It looked a long way off and we had another 3 kilometres and 500 metres to climb. Rather than heading steeply up the piste, we turned left into forest.

It was cooler in the shade, which was very welcome as we snowshoed up, up, up. Thankfully, the pace was steady and there were plenty of rest stops. As I checked my Garmin watch, we kept knocking another 50 metres off the ascent, making good progress.

After a while we met the border between Austria and Italy, marked only by a barbed wire fence and occasional stone marker posts. Eventually, we popped out above trees into bright sunshine. The views were wonderful in every direction, from the snowy mountain ranges towering above us, to the towns and villages in the valleys far below.

As we gained height it became breezier and colder. We stopped to pull on extra layers and I donned my favourite stripy hat and gloves. The whole time we climbed, I could hear John chattering away with some of the others, while I was happy to remain quiet and conserve my breath.

Finally we reached the top of Sattelberg, passing the beautiful cross to touch the summit cairn at 2115 metres. Lesley took a photo of us as I stood in Italy and John stood across the border in Austria. Sean had told us it was always windy on top and this was evidenced by the sight of grass where the summit had been scrubbed clear of snow.

After taking some photos, we dropped back down a little to eat lunch out of the wind and wait for other group, who’d taken the second minibus from Almi’s Berghotel.

Before we set off back downhill, Lesley gathered us all for a summit photograph with both groups. It’s a great photo but I’m not sharing it here because some people want to maintain their privacy and I respect that decision. We then headed straight down the red ski piste to Sattelberg Alm. In places it was icy, whereas in others it was deep snow, which I loved swooshing through.

Back at the hut, as we were near the Italian border, John asked if they had Bombardinos and we were pleased when they did. By now it was almost 3 o’clock and the hut was closing soon. Thankfully, the second group made it just in time to be served.

All we had to do now was make our way down the blue piste to where the shuttle from Almi’s was waiting. The route up the road to the car park turned out to be the most dangerous part of the day, with black ice on the road and pavement!

There was plenty of time for a celebratory gluhwein and a shower before dinner. After dinner we had the opportunity to taste the cheeses made up at Steinberger Alm… delicious! Tomorrow, we pack up and head back to Innsbruck for our last night. The snowshoeing has been very enjoyable, but I’m also looking forward to some time to relax.