After breakfast, we put our rucksacks on again for the short walk to our next hotel, the 4 star Monte Rosa…very much an upgrade from our previous hotels and mountain refuges! Although it was only 10 o’clock, the plan was to leave our packs at the hotel, and explore Zermatt until we could check in.
Walking through the town, we came upon the mountaineers’ cemetery. Here there are graves of about 50 climbers who perished in the surrounding mountains. Most date from the 19th and 20th centuries, although there are some from later. It’s very poignant, given that you can see the Matterhorn, where most deaths occurred, from the cemetery. I was surprised how many women climbed in the 19th century… wearing dresses!


We had a lovely welcome at the hotel, which the receptionist was proud to tell us was the first hotel in Zermatt in 1839. He also informed us that Edward Whymper stayed in this hotel when he was the first man to reach the summit of the Matterhorn on 14 July 1865. Sadly, on the descent, four of the men in his climbing party fell to their deaths from the north face of the mountain. They’re remembered in the mountaineers’ cemetery.
He then checked us in and we were very pleased to be told our room was ready for us and we could go in immediately. It was also surprising that our heavy packs had already been whisked up to the room and were waiting for us. The room was beautiful and spacious, and we settled in and had a coffee before heading out to wander around Zermatt.


The town has lots of lovely, if rather expensive shops. I treated myself to a couple of T shirts in the sale… it’s good to be wearing something that isn’t hiking gear! Zermatt is car free, although pedestrians still have to watch out for bicycles and little electric taxis that fly around the streets.
Next we wandered along the river and through the narrow alleys in the old part of the town. There are charming barns, stores, stables and old houses, which were built between the 16th and 18th centuries, all tucked away between the modern hotels.


After lunch at our hotel bar, we walked down the road to the Mont Cervin Palace. This is a sister hotel to the Monte Rosa and we were able to use the pool there free of charge during our stay. We spent a wonderful couple of hours floating in the water, being pummelled by various water jets, and soaking up the sunshine.


John then received a message from Becky and Dan, who had hiked the Walkers’ Haute Route like us, and who we’ve kept bumping into. At times, we thought they must think we were stalking them! John had suggested we got together for a drink on our last night before starting our journey home, and Becky said they would be in the North Wall Bar at 5.30.


We had a last dip, dried off and returned to our hotel room to change before joining them. We spent a lovely couple of hours chatting over a few beers. We were having such a good time, that John and I were late getting to the restaurant we’d booked for dinner. We were in such a rush, we don’t remember paying for our drinks in the bar, but Becky reassured us that they didn’t have to pay for them. It’s a mystery! Anyway… I hope our paths cross again sometime.


Tomorrow, we catch the train from Zermatt to Geneva, before flying home on Sunday.
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