Former railroad tunnels between Framura and Levanto have been restored for use by cyclists and walkers. We’d originally planned to cycle through them on Friday but there was an Italian rail strike so, as it was too far to cycle to the start, we postponed the trip until today.
I was a bit nervous about taking the bikes on the train because it was so busy when we travelled into Cinque Terre, but I needn’t have worried. The carriages taking cycles were clearly marked and there was plenty of room for Ruby and Ronnie, our e-bikes. I did struggle getting Ruby up and down the steps to the platform on the far side of the station though!
We got off the train in Framura and went down a steep path to the harbour. The waves were pounding against the cliffs and harbour walls, and we stood marvelling at their power for a bit. The colours in the water were stunning. Then, one at a time, we got a small panoramic lift up to the cycleway, glad we didn’t have to use the steep flight of steps.
The cycleway is around 5 kilometres long and passes through beautifully made tunnels, with galleries with amazing views of the cliffs and the sea.
We kept stopping to look at the view and watch the crashing waves, and also explored a little side tunnel that led to a headland where people must camp in summer. Despite the sunshine, there weren’t many people on the secluded beaches along the trail this morning, and I wondered if we’d find anywhere safe to swim in the sea.
After a long stretch of tunnel we reached the first town, Bonassola. It was charming, with the coloured buildings typical of Liguria and a fantastic beach. There was some sort of festival going on in the town today, with market stalls and a brass band playing.
The cycleway then took us through more tunnels and galleries to Levanto, on the edge of Cinque Terre, where we began our hike earlier in the week. It was very lively today, with Italian locals, surfers and tourists, out and about on a Sunday.
We watched dozens of surfers in wetsuits bobbing in the waves, marvelling as the better ones rode the biggest white caps to shore. Very cool! Then it was time for lunch. I was getting hot and grumpy as we struggled to find a place that suited us both… not too much sun, not too much shade, not just pasta, not just a cafe! Finally, we found a lovely little seafood restaurant.
I wasn’t happy when my main course arrived though, because the fish still had its head, its eye looking at me and making me feel guilty! However, John kindly offered to swap for his swordfish steak, and both meals turned out to be delicious.
By now, the waves were dropping and the surfers were leaving the beach. As we cycled out of Levanto, we spotted a quiet bay protected by a breakwater where the sea was calmer and decided to have a swim.
After a while, we showered and dried off, then cycled back to Framura, stopping for an ice cream in Bonassola… it would have been silly not to because we had plenty of time to spare before getting the train! And we can’t resist gelato… cherry for me and nutty for John.
We still had half an hour to wait at Framura, but enjoyed sitting by the harbour watching a mummy and baby goat on the cliffs above us, and enjoying the view and the sunshine. As often seems to happen in Italy, like at home, the train was delayed, but we eventually arrived back in Riva Trigoso, negotiated the steps in the station and put our motors on for the steep climb to the campsite. It’s been another wonderful day.
Ramblings 
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