Via Ardèche bike ride

I’ve had a tough day today. 35 degrees is just too hot for me and I’ve really struggled. So much for it being cooler in September! Anyway, we’ve done a section of the Via Ardèche, a cycle path along an old railway. It was lovely, although I’d have enjoyed it far more if I hadn’t been melting.

On the way out of Vallon we stopped at a canoe rental office to book a shuttle back from Sauze for our 2-day packraft trip, and also booked the campsite in the gorge. I really hope it’s cool in the gorge!

To get to the Via Ardèche, we had a 10k link cycle path. This was ok to start with but then went uphill very steeply. I wasn’t prepared for it, so I ended up walking… tantrum 1! Walking with a bike in this heat is worse than cycling. At least there’s a breeze when you’re cycling!

I managed to persevere, knowing John wanted to get some new sandals in the kayak shop in Vogüé. Finally we reached Ruoms and joined the track and the cycling became easier. Some areas were in the shade, which was nice, although other sections were much more open.

We crossed the Viaduc de Balazuc, with lovely views and beautiful ornate iron railings. We then came to a 900 metre long tunnel, which was lit with pretty lights and so lovely and cool I could have stayed there all day!

Finally, after about 25 kilometres, we reached Vogüé. Unfortunately the kayak shop isn’t open on Mondays so John’s Teva’s live to packraft another day!

Vogüé is a lovely old town on the River Ardèche with a castle, 2 viaducts, and narrow streets. We parked up and found somewhere for lunch… a delicious 2-course plat du jour for 19 euros each. I’d forgotten how good these set menus in France could be.

After lunch, we topped up our water bottles at the fountain in the street and headed back. I did my best in the heat… just put my bike motor on and kept pedalling , trying not to get to overheat. I can’t say I enjoyed the ride back… in fact I found it really difficult. John was fine though.

Tantrum 2 was just after Ruoms. Although I’d increased my engine power at a small hill, there were gates across the cycle path, which I failed to navigate and ended up walking again. Once I reached John who was waiting in a patch of shade from a tree, I dumped my poor bike, Ruby, on the floor. Then I grabbed one of my water bottles, dumped myself on the floor and poured water on my face to try and cool down, feeling quite sick and headachy, and very sorry for myself.

Finally, I pulled myself together and got going again. This time, John took me on main roads, rather than over the steep hills. I put my engine on high and it was fine… just keeping moving kept me cool enough to get back.

Back at the campsite, we had big beers and shared an ice cream sundae… good to cool my core… yes?

After a shower, I’ve been lying around feeling sorry for myself while John tidied the kit. I’ve been waiting for it to get cooler, and made sure I rehydrated before we have cheese and biscuits for tea. I hope my body is going to get used to this heat because it looks as though it’s here to stay.

PS. Although it’s been a tough day, that doesn’t mean it’s been a bad day. I did enjoy sections of the cycling, and visiting Vogüé. Lunch was excellent and sitting outside the van in the dark is very pleasant. Writing this blog definitely helps me remember the good bits of the day.