A fort, a lake and cows: Pian Palù

We took the mainline bus to Peio Fonti, then a shuttle bus up a side valley, getting off near Forte Barba di Fior. This is a ruined World War 1 fort perched high on a rocky outcrop.

After yesterday’s non-stop rain, the cloud was still low this morning, almost hiding the fort, and the mountain stream we followed for much of the day, Torrente Noce, was fast flowing, the sound sometimes deafening.

We followed an old military trail that wound its way steeply uphill around rocks, through larch trees, and past caves and tunnels used to store ammunition. Eventually we emerged at the fort to see a lovely view of the valley, although the mountains were still shrouded in cloud.

We spent some time exploring the fort before heading off, back through the trees towards the end of the valley at Fontanino de Celentino. The path followed the gushing stream and, at first, the valley was quite gorge-like with rocks and forest high above us on either side. Later, it broadened and cows were grazing in pastures, their cowbells ringing, letting us know they were there.

Passing through Fontanino, we saw the source of the local mineral water that, apparently, can have a laxative effect if too much is drunk. It was much busier here because most people take the bus right up the valley and alight here to visit Lago Pian Palù.

The path zig-zagged up to the dam of the lake. I’d deliberately planned the walk to include more ascent than descent today, because my leg muscles haven’t completely recovered from all the downhill earlier in the week. As we approached the lake, more cows were grazing… shaggy highland coos and the local alpine cows with their beautiful big eyes and soft grey or brown coats. We waited until the cow herders had separated the two breeds before continuing on our way… well, I didn’t want to get caught up in the middle… I’m scared of cows!

Next we met donkeys, including some babies, which were very cute. When I took my sunglasses out of my rucksack, one donkey came dashing over… I think it was hoping for some food.

Lago Pian Palù was stunning, with its bright, milky turquoise water. It was very low, ready to be filled with autumn rains and winter snow melt. We followed the path along the lake, passing numerous waterfalls cascading down the mountainside, and continuing uphill through the trees, past rocky outcrops. At one point we came across four calves, who stubbornly refused to move to let me past. John managed to shoo them to one side and I escaped through the gate.

When we reached the end of the lake, we dropped back down to pastures with more grazing cows. John noted that the sound of the cow bells has followed us all day. It’s wonderful to hear, if a bit disconcerting at times for someone a bit scared of cows… the bells make me aware cows are nearby, but it’s often difficult to tell how close they are, especially when they’re in the trees! 😆

After sitting on a log eating our butties,we turned back along the lake, again steeply uphill. Before too long we met yet another group of cows on the narrow path in front of us. There was no way to pass them until the path got wider. We finally managed to overtake most of them, but one girl really wanted to stay ahead of us. I was pleased when she finally found some grass she fancied and we could get past her. However, she continuing following us, her bell clanging away, until we passed through a gate and shut her and her friends behind it!

The whole walk was beautiful and we thoroughly enjoyed it… the fort, the swooshing rivers and waterfalls, the turquoise lake and the lush green forest with pretty mushrooms. Of course, the cows and donkeys just added to the fun! It was a shame to reach the end and drop down to the dam of the lake, then Fontanino in the valley below.

Never mind, we have another, longer walk planned for tomorrow and hopefully, we’ll have sunshine too. 🤞