Getting to know Matrei am Brenner

After a long day yesterday, we decided to take it easy today and explore the local area by car. First we had to pop to the shops to stock up on supplies and get something for breakfast.

Once we were organised, we drove up a nearby valley to Navis, where we’re hoping to do a snowshoe hike later in the week. I was a bit nervous about heading out into the hills, but the main roads were clear and John was happy with how well the car’s winter tyres handled on the snowy lanes at the end of the valley.

Our only issue was when we took a wrong turning down a narrow side road and John pulled onto the edge of a driveway to turn around. A lady came running from the house, waving her arms and shouting at us. We acted dumb, apologising and saying we couldn’t speak German, just English, but she wouldn’t calm down. In the end John wound his window up and we drove off laughing… what a fuss about nothing!

Navis was small but pretty, shrouded in a layer of snow. Like Matrei where we’re staying, there’s a lovely mixture of traditional and modern buildings, frescos, sculptures. Despite it being Saturday, there were few people around and we had the place to ourselves.

Back in the main valley, with the River Sill running alongside the highway, our next stop was Steinach am Brenner. The Bergeralm ski area is here and people were enjoying the first weekend of the ski season. We discussed going up on the cable car to have a short walk and lunch in the mountain restaurant but decided against it. The low cloud and cold wind meant a cosy cafe in the valley was preferable. I ended up with the biggest schnitzel I’ve ever seen, which John had to help me finish!

In the evening, there was a Christmas Market in Matrei am Brenner. The main street was lined with stalls selling hot drinks and all sorts of traditional foods. John had frankfurters, I had an Austrian cheese pasty, and we both had apple donuts… not very healthy, but delicious! We washed these down with gluhwein and hot Aperol.

There were various bands playing as we wandered long the street and the atmosphere was warm and lively, with people of all ages enjoying the evening together. We explored the stalls selling handcrafted items, then stumbled upon some metal working studios down a side street. On further investigation, I discovered these belonged to several brothers.

We were surprised the blacksmith, one of the brothers, was working while the crowds milled around him, and small children stood just feet away. Health and safety rules can’t be as strict here as they are at home!

Next, we came across a gallery belonging to another of the brothers, a metal working artist called Anton Amort, whose portfolio seems both varied and extensive . I particularly loved his metal pictures of mountains, which captured the light beautifully. Maybe I’ll commission one of Snowdonia one day!

Anton and three other men were playing folk rock music at the back of the gallery. We helped ourselves to a glass of wine each, putting some money in a piggy bank to pay for it, then spent a while enjoying the music and the relaxing ambience, before heading back to our apartment. What a wonderful end to the day!