Snowshoeing above the clouds: Patscherkofel 2246m

The primary purpose of this trip is snowshoeing, an outdoor activity that I love because, unlike skiing, mountain biking and white water kayaking, it’s a sport that doesn’t scare me! Hiking up hills and through forests, away from the noisy pistes full of skiers and snowboarders is wonderful. I love the peace and solitude, and it’s challenging enough for me to find it very rewarding. There’s nothing better than feeling tired at the end of a day, knowing you’ve achieved something. Today was one of those days… it was hard work, but I reached a peak high above the clouds and it was superb!

While we were in Italy at the beginning of September, I received an email from Austrian Alpine Club listing a beginners’ snowshoeing trip. We’re members of the club to have insurance cover when we hike and trek in the mountains in Europe, but this is the first chance we’ve had to join an organised event since we’ve retired. I was made up when John agreed to join the snowshoeing trip because I know he’d rather be speeding down a mountain on skis.

Whenever we get to the mountains, it seems to take me longer than most people to adjust to the altitude; for example, worse sleep than usual and a tight chest on exertion. Because of this, we decided to add 6 days to the trip to give ourselves time to settle in, remember how to use our winter equipment, and have a couple of practice snowshoe hikes. The weather’s been poor for the first few days of our holiday… that’s ok because we needed the snow, but I was pleased when the forecast for today was good.

The cloud was low in the valley as we drove to the Patscherkofel cable car, but we had glimpses of blue sky and I was hopeful that the weather would improve, as the forecast had promised. This cable car was included in our Innsbruck City Pass and I read that it was possible to snowshoe safely to the peak, so it was a no-brainer to give it a go.

It was very cold so we layered up, put our hiking boots and gaiters on, grabbed our snowshoes and poles and quickly headed to the cable car. This whisked us up to the middle station (1716 metres) from where we decided we’d walk to the summit of Patcherkofel, which is 2246 metres high… more than double the height of Snowdon. We alighted from the lift, visited the loo… better than getting extremities out in the cold… then set off along the Vitalweg path to climb 250 metres to the upper cable cable car station (1965 metres).

The path wound its way through the forest, steadily up hill. As we ascended, we left the cold cloud behind us, pleased to feel the sun on our faces. The views were spectacular with the snow covered peaks poking through the fluffy clouds, and glimpses of the valley floor and Innsbruck far below us.

After about an hour and three quarters, we reached the upper cable car station where we stopped at the mountain hut for a burger and a beer. It was amazing to be able to sit outside and soak up some sunshine while we ate, watching the occasional skiers and boarders wind their way down the newly prepared slopes.

The barman advised us it was 50 minutes from here to the summit, and that the last lift was at 4 o’clock. This gave us plenty of time even though, with another 280 metres to climb, I suspected I’d take longer than he estimated. Having paid the bill, we set off uphill again. It was warmer now and we’d both discarded some layers, before we continued to plod our way along the path shared between snowshoers, hikers and ski tourers.

Despite loving the experience… the beautiful snow covered trees, the mountains poking through the cloud, the sunshine and cool, fresh air… after about 100 metres of ascent, my chest was feeling tight and I began to wonder if I’d make the summit. I felt my progress was really slow but John reassured me, moving in front of me to break the trail and pack the snow down to made it easier for me. He was patient as I kept asking if we were still ok for time, and how much ascent was left.

Finally, we spotted the summit mast and the polyhedron of the weather station, and I knew I’d be ok. I kept trudging through the snow and, all of a sudden I was standing under the wooden cross with Austria spread before me, cloaked in a sea of cotton wool. This is why I climb mountains… the feeling at the top is sensational!

Having taken the obligatory summit photos, we set off back downhill, travelling much faster now. Now and again skiers would swoosh past us, making us jump. We were soon back at the cable car station and, although I would have liked to stay and watch the sun set on the mountain, the sensible option was to return to the valley and head back to Matrei. After all, we have another snowshoe trip planned for tomorrow. Hopefully it will be as enjoyable as today’s.