Because of the poor weather in the mountains, we decided to head south and stay in Lucca, with the option of also visiting Pisa if we have time. The rain started as we left the aire in Santa Maria and accompanied us on the twisty roads down through the forested hills. At least the road was well maintained and there was little other traffic.
Once we had the coast in sight the sun came out and we made good progress to our campsite just outside Lucca. Our plans to visit the city in the afternoon were scuppered when the clouds darkened and it poured down! We postponed our walk to the following day, hoping the rain would ease. Pisa will have to wait for another time.
Unfortunately, it is still raining today. Nevertheless, we grabbed our umbrellas and wandered into Lucca. We meandered through the narrow streets and piazzas, first visiting the church of San Michele in Foro, topped by a huge winged figure of an archangel slaying a dragon.
Our next stop was Duomo Di San Martino, Lucca’s 11th century cathedral. There were lots of tour parties around, wearing ponchos and clutching umbrellas, and we heard a lot of English/American spoken.
We didn’t go up the bell tower of the cathedral, preferring to go up Torre Guinigi instead because it has holm oak trees on its top. I’ve never visited a mini forest on a tower before!
The tower dates from the 1300s and is 45 metres high. As we climbed the many stone steps and then narrow iron stairs, we kept standing back to allow people coming down to pass. Out of the dozens, I think only one person said ‘thank you’! Rude!
Despite the cloud and mist shrouding the mountains and hills, we could see for miles from the top. I loved the way the oak tree branches framed the views of the roofs of the city. It was rather wet up there today though!
The final place I wanted to see was the Piazza Anfiteatro, an oval shaped piazza edged by buildings. It follows the shape of the Roman amphitheatre that was originally on this site. I had wondered about eating in this piazza, but it didn’t look very inviting in the rain. John had spotted a cosy and interesting little restaurant as we wandered through the streets, so we headed there instead.
We weren’t disappointed. Trattoria da Ubaldo is decorated with all sorts of interesting and unusual items… skeletons, scary dolls and masks, children’s bicycles and dozens of willies 🤭. We were lucky we arrived early, not long after 12, because all the tables soon filled up, many with locals. The food was delicious and we spent a leisurely couple of hours enjoying the meal and the atmosphere, warm and dry.
Finally, we wandered back to the campsite, past the church of San Frediano, which has a colourful 13th century mosaic on its facade, then along a section of the boulevard on top of the medieval walls… More on those tomorrow as we’re planning to do Mura da Lucca Parkrun, which is round the walls. Hopefully the sun will come out. If I’m enduring a run, I don’t want to have to endure rain too!
Ramblings 
despite the weather, looks like a fun place to explore.
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