Cinque Terre day 1: Levanto to Vernazzo

We left Molly Moho on the campsite and took the campsite shuttle bus to Riva Trigoso, then the train to Levanto. From here, we hiked through Cinque Terre over 2 days, staying the first night in Vernazza and the second in Riomaggiore.

We climbed out of Levanto past a stripy church, elegant houses and a 13th century castle. The unrelenting ascent was just the first of many on this route. When I complained later, John told me I only had myself to blame because it was me who chose to hike along a coastal path!

Thankfully, much of the path was in shade in the morning. As the trees opened out, we enjoyed glimpses of the sea glistening far below the cliffs.

As we approached the first of the five Cinque Terre towns, Monterosso, the path became flatter and the views of the coastline were wonderful. We took a detour to the ruined church of Sant’Antonio al Mesco, where there also used to be a monastery, later used as watch tower, and a Second World War bunker.

From here, we had a steep and seemingly endless descent to Monterosso, much of it on huge stone steps… difficult for my little legs! Eventually at the bottom, and very hot and sticky, we found a bar to cool off and have some lunch, before resuming the hike.

We walked along the attractive beachfront, wishing we had time to go for a swim in the aquamarine water, then a lane lead to a pedestrian walkway around the cliffs. Here we had to show our Cinque Terre hiking passes, which cost us 14 euros each for the two days.

Before long, our second relentless climb began on what felt like vertical staircases between stone walls. Finally, we reached a lovely level section, shaded in trees.

Finally, we could see the pretty coloured houses of Vernazza, as we passed through vineyards and along terraces. The descent was easier than the descent to Monterosso, but still tough in the hot mid afternoon sunshine.

We were pleased to reach the cool of the narrow streets of the town, and easily found our little apartment. I couldn’t wait to get a shower!

Having freshened up, we walked down to the charming waterfront then up to Castello Doria. There were wonderful views of the town and coastline from the top. John spotted a bar perched on the cliff, and it would have been rude not to pop there for an Aperol spritz 🤭.

The day ended with dinner in a little bistro near our apartment, and meals that made a change from the usual pizza and pasta offered in Italy. What a wonderful day!