On the ferry crossing to Moskenes on Lofoten, we looked for somewhere to stay. By now it was 11 o’clock at night, so we didn’t want to travel too far from the ferry terminal. Checking online, everywhere seemed expensive, now had ‘no camping’ signs or was small and likely to be full at this time. We also tried ringing a campsite but, unfortunately, they were fully booked. We hadn’t realised it was the weekend, and also the start of the main Norwegian holiday season. After some discussion, we decided to head towards Fredvang… 30 minutes drive and, hopefully, away from the tourist hotspots.
We were second off the ferry and John drove north, while I researched overnight stops en route as we approached them. I was just about to suggest checking a motorhome camping aire when John pointed it out, just over a bridge outside Reine in Olenilsøya. Yes! It looked lovely with spacious pitches, it wasn’t very expensive and, best of all, there was plenty of room for Molly. We chose a spot with a partial sea view to one side.
As we wandered through the aire to find out how to pay, I realised it was after midnight, others were probably tucked up in bed and we were talking loudly. Oops! It’s easy to forget the time when the sun doesn’t set. I love the way it just kisses the horizon and rises again, with the red sky lasting a couple of hours.
Both wide awake, we had some wine and made plans for the next couple of days… exploring the south of Lofoten and hiking up Reinebringen’s 1974 stone steps. I read that there was a good chance we’d see Orcas from the aire… wonderful! It must have been 2 o’clock before we got to sleep.
I woke several times in the night with the rain hammering on the roof and, in the morning the mist was low, shrouding the mountain tops. Worst of all, the wind was howling. We checked the forecast and discovered it was going to be like this for the next three days. Our walk was off. Plan B was required.
A bit down in the dumps, lying in bed with a brew, we considered our options. Thinking outside the box a bit, I wondered if it was worth leaving Lofoten and heading to Nordkapp. It doesn’t matter what the weather’s like when we’re driving, and we can return to Lofoten in a week or so. John pondered for a few minutes and concluded that he liked that idea. We had a look at our itinerary and decided the change of schedule would work ok.
Knowing our luck, the weather will still be bad in a week, and Lofoten will be even busier! But at least we’re spending our time doing something productive and not sitting around feeling sorry for ourselves, wishing we could go hiking.
It will take us three days to get to Nordkapp, with about 5 to 6 hours of driving each day. Our chosen route will take us through Sweden and Finland before we reach the highest point in Europe.
The drive has felt long today, but we’ve made good progress. The roads were narrow and winding on Lofoten, but have got wider and easier as the day went on. The scenery has been stunning all day, despite the miserable weather, and softened as we’ve come further from the dramatic soaring peaks of Lofoten. We’re now staying in a lovely new motorhome aire in Bjervik, just about to have leftover curry for tea, then an early night.
Ramblings 
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