Saltstrauman: ‘the world’s strongest maelstrom’

Today, we visited Saltstrauman where there is one of the strongest tidal currents in the world, causing whirlpools and eddies up to 10 metres in diameter.

The current or tidal race is created every 6 hours when the tide turns and huge volumes of water flow in and out of the narrow fjord at speeds of up to 20 knots. It is strongest when the difference between high and low tide is greatest, around a new or full moon, and we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. It was amazing! Far better than I’d expected. The photos really don’t do it justice.

We stopped at the end of the Saltstrauman Bridge so we could admire it, then crossed its high arch above the fjord to the parking area on the far side. From here, we could walk down below the bridge, as well as up onto it to see the tidal race.

There was a really pretty area below the bridge with footpaths winding between wild flower meadows, and past coastal inlets, a lake and potholes in the rock, which would have once been underwater. We soon reached a rocky area overlooking the tidal race where there was an old lighthouse.

We spent some time watching the whirlpools form and dissipate, marvelling at the speed and strength of the water. Boats raced in with the tide, and struggled hard to return back under the bridge against it.

Then, we followed a path round the coast through some pretty red fisherman’s huts before heading up onto the bridge. We could see the whirlpools much better from the high vantage point. They looked wonderful… their turquoise swirls and white foam standing out as they continually changed shape in the deep ocean blue.

Again, we spent a long time watching the swirling maelstroms and the boats. Now the current was at its strongest, there were several ribs carrying tourists playing in the turbulent water… but avoiding the huge whirlpools!

Eventually we dragged ourselves away. We left the parking area and set off to the Rago National Park, stopping on route to top Molly’s LPG bottle and visit the supermarket.

Tomorrow we’re hiking to Litlverivassfossen, a 223m high waterfall with a suspension bridge above it. Then, in the evening, we’re catching a ferry to Værøy, a remote island at the southern end of the Lofoten archipelago.