Nusfjord and Reine: red and ochre cabins

After a good night’s sleep in peaceful Uttakleiv, we set off to explore further south in Lofoten. First, we headed to Nusfjord, with a little detour on the way to Buksnes Church.

This is a historic red wooden church built in 1905. I took some photos, then it was Dave the Drone’s turn to get some. I think his are better than mine, but he does have a height advantage!

Winding along the narrow roads to Nusfjord, a Belgian Campervan beeped and made us jump as he overtook us and flew down the road. Karma reigned when we immediately found a parking spot in the village, while he was still driving around, waiting for someone to leave! It was very busy and we were very lucky that someone left a suitable spot just as we arrived.

I thoroughly enjoyed wandering around Nusfjord, one of Norway’s oldest and best-preserved fishing villages. It’s nestled between mountains in a secluded valley on a fjord. It’s very pretty and, despite being busy, felt quite peaceful.

We had to pay an entrance fee to cover parking and access to the buildings and harbour. I don’t mind because the money seems to be ploughed back into looking after the buildings and tourist attractions.

We wandered through the red and ochre rorbuer (traditional fishermen’s cabins) and work buildings, some of which are 100s of years old. There’s a small museum and gallery in the former cod liver oil factory, as well as a smithy, smokehouse and sawmill.

Apparently, 1,500 fishermen lived here in the early 20th century, and more than 600,000 fish would have hung on the drying racks around the village. The access road wasn’t built until the 1960s, and I’m surprised to read that there are no new buildings in the harbour area. They’re so well maintained, it’s astonishing to think everything remains as it was in the 1920s.

On leaving Nusfjord, we headed to Reine where we’re staying tonight. We contemplated using the same motorhome aire as last time, but instead decided to try one nearer the centre of the little town. It’s also nearer the start of the Reinebringen hiking trail, which we’d like to do tomorrow if the weather’s good enough.

Like Nusfjord, Reine is very pretty, on a string of islands linked by bridges and winding roads. The steep and jagged mountains tower above the red and ochre buildings that line the fjords.

We wandered around the harbour, which is still used by fishermen today, then went into the centre and explored the narrow streets. After a stop for a drink, we crossed the causeway from the centre so I could take more photos , before heading back to Molly Moho for tea.

Tomorrow, is our last day on Lofoten so I hope the weather is kind to us. As well as a hike, we’re planning to have fish and chips as treat.

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