This morning we visited the Hurtigruten Museum, which was only a few minutes from our aire in Stokmarknes. The modern building is very modern and striking from the outside. However, it’s more impressive inside where there’s a whole ship crammed, taking up the vast space just like a ship in a bottle!
We began exploring below the ship where we learned about Hurtigruten, the shipping line that travels along the Norwegian Coastal Route between Bergen and Kirkenes.
Much of the history focussed on the 5-year German occupation of Norway in World War 2. Between them, the Germans and British destroyed all but 3 of the ships in the Norwegian coastal fleet. We also read how Hurtigruten had been revived after the war, and developments in shipping over that time. It was really interesting, and worth the entrance fee.
We then explored the ships. There are two… DS Finmarken from 1912-56 and MS Finnmarken from 1956-93. On the older ship, we could visit cabins and some rather grand lounges.
There was much more to explore on the newer ship and we made our way from the top to the bottom, exploring the decks, lounges, passenger cabins and crew quarters, cargo deck, and so on.
I found the bridge, the captain’s cabin, the radio room and the post room most interesting. It was enjoyable imagining what life is like for the crew on board a ship sailing up and down the Norwegian coast in all weathers.
We must have spent about 2 hours in the museum and, when we left it was lunchtime. However, we decided to head to Melbu to catch the ferry to Fiskebøl before we had anything to eat. Luckily, a ferry was due as we got there, and there was plenty of room for us.
The journey from Vesterålen to Lofoten only took 25 minutes and, as we had plenty of time before we needed to find somewhere to stay, we decided to take the scenic route around the north coast rather than following the main road.
We drove through Lofoten a couple of weeks ago, but amended our plans and left because the forecast wasn’t good enough to do the big walks we’ve planned. Unfortunately, it isn’t looking any better now! I wondered if we were just unlucky, but research suggests that this changeable, unpredictable weather with heavy showers and strong winds is normal.
Anyway… the islands are stunning even if the sun isn’t shining, and we had an enjoyable drive through soaring green mountains, past white beaches and over blue fjords.
Having stopped to photograph VÃ¥gan Church, we headed to the village of Eggum, where we’re staying, between the mountains and the sea. There’s a sculpture called Hode (meaning Head) that changes its form 16 times as the viewer walks around it. From one angle it looks like a classical head and from another, the head is upside down. Apparently, it shows us that the world’s full of surprises, and reminds us about perspective. It’s rather clever.
Ramblings 
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