A broken down ferry across the Arctic Circle

We packed up and left the campsite before 10.00, aiming to catch our first ferry at 11.00. We followed route 17 and crossed the elegant Helgeland Bridge, before arriving in the ferry terminal at Levang in plenty of time.

It’s another beautiful day but it was very windy on board the ferry. Twenty five minutes later we docked in Nesna, where we had the longest section of driving today… about an hour and a half to Kilboghamn.

We followed a lorry for much of the way, kicking up dust when we passed through roadworks, slowing us down uphill but speeding away downhill. We also discovered that tunnels through the mountains in this part of the world are very narrow!

The drive was enjoyable though because everywhere is so pretty and the roads are generally well maintained. Around every corner, we seemed to have another new and amazing view.

We needed some supplies and, although supermarkets aren’t open on Sundays in Norway, John had found a small shop where we could get what we needed. Well… we could if we could get in! The shop wasn’t manned and I had to scan a QR code and log in with my email and phone number before the door would open. Once we finally got inside, shopping and self-checkout was straightforward… phew! Our first drama… 58 year olds and technology don’t mix!

Arriving at Kilboghamn, all appeared to be going well and we drove onto the ferry at 13.35. It was a large ferry, probably because the journey was relatively long, lasting about an hour. We went up to the lounge, while the ticket man scanned the vehicle number plates to check everyone had paid. About halfway through the journey, John noticed we’d slowed down and done a circle in the middle of the ocean. We then started heading back the way we’d come, which confused us.

Eventually, the captain came to tell us, thankfully in English, that the ferry’s fuel pump had failed and needed replacing so we were returning to Kilboghamn. Some people decided they didn’t want to wait for the ferry to be fixed and asked for their vehicles to be removed, which meant we all had to disembark. Drama number two.

The captain then informed us that they’d found a spare fuel pump and that they’d load us back onboard as a priority as soon as it was fixed. By 16.15, we were sailing again, which meant we could still get to our intended destination today… phew again!

On the ferry, we crossed the Artic Circle, indicated by a monument on the shore. Then, we docked at Jetvick in plenty of time to drive to Ã…gskardet to get our final ferry at 18.00. It seems a lot of the vehicles that disembarked were doing the same thing as we formed a drawn out procession to the next ferry terminal!

Our last ferry crossing to Esøya only took about 15 minutes and the drive to the aire where we’re staying tonight didn’t take much longer. The scenery has been absolutely stunning all day and our final resting place is pretty. We can see the Svartisen Glacier that we plan to visit tomorrow, and we’re surrounded by colourful flower meadows and snow capped peaks, with the turquoise blue fjord below us. Perfect!

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